Featuring: AC in Kyoto

'The things you are passionate about are not random. They are your calling!'

I have dreamt of going to Kansai for many years now. Everyone travels for various reasons; it has always been the daily lives of the people as well as the culture that appealed to me.  I was very fortunate in that I timed my travels just as the Sakura season was at its peak! They blended harmoniously with the landscape, painting gradients of whites and pinks as they flourished.

After leaving my exhaustion behind in the hostel, I took a leisurely stroll along the Shirakawa river. What greeted me was a promenade framed with white Sakura blossoms, waving to me in the wind. As I admired the beauty of the falling petals, an antique plaque caught my attention. It was written by the poet, Isamu Yoshii (吉井勇):

Shirakawa (白川), Gion, Central Kyoto (洛中). A stone with a Waka (Japanese poem with song-like qualities) engraved on it

かにかくに(Kanikakuni – Here and there)

祇園はこひし (Gion-wa-kohishi – is my love for Gion)

寝(ぬ)るときも (Nuru-toki-mo – Even when I sleep)

枕のしたを水のながるる (Makura-no-shita-o-mizu-no-nagaruru – the trickling of the river flows underneath my pillow)

Shirakawa, Gion. Details: Shidare Sakura beside the Shirakawa river with an antique tea house overlooking. [Shidare Sakura (枝垂桜, Cerasus spachiana f. Spachiana). Peak season in April, flower language: elegance and purity]

Another special feature about this place is the architecture which resonates with the people's pride in their tradition. It was once the capital of Japan in the Hei’an era (平安時代), which is why it is not difficult to understand the determination of the local government in preserving the landscape of the city in the olden days. As a visitor, you can really sense their affection for their country, and their wish to share their heritage.

Somei-Yoshino (染井吉野)

Unquestionably, Somei-yoshino is the type of cherry blossom that you would see in most places in Japan. It is famous for its magnificence in full bloom, the ephemerality and the beauty of the falling blossom.

Northern end of the Tetsugaku-no-michi (哲学の道, Philosopher’s Path), Eastern Kyoto (洛東). Details: Three young ladies in Kimono (Japanese: 和服) walking along the Sakura no Namikimichi

As I was walking along the Kamogawa (鴨川) River, I saw the Imperial Gardens and Kyoto University, which illustrated perfectly, the juxtaposition between the historical and the modern. After a while, I arrived at the Philosopher’s Walk. In this season, it was adorned by the Somei-yoshino cherry blossom along the river, and where there was Sakura, there were ladies in Kimono. Once a traditional formal wear, it has now become very à la mode. 

Tanka (短歌) from the renown philosopher, Kitarou Nishida (西田幾太郎)

人は人 (Hito-wa-hito, Others are others)　

吾はわれ也 (Ware-wa-ware-nari, I am me)　

とにかくに　(Tonikakuni, No matter what)

吾行く道を　(Ware-yuku-michi-o, The road that I walk)

吾は行なり (Ware-wa-ikunari, I will walk)

No matter how beautiful ladies in Kimono were, I still preferred to venture on this path alone. After all, the Philosopher’s Walk was supposed to be quiet and inspiring, a journey made by oneself. As I walked away from the hustle and bustle of the Sakura viewers, I saw rapeseed with small yellow flowers, drakes and ducks walking side by side, local shops and ordinary homes. Then gradually as I made each step forward, I understood why Professor Nishida wrote this poem.    

Kiyomizu Temple (清水寺), Eastern Kyoto (洛東), Koyasu Pagoda (子安塔) and Mount Otowa (音羽山) from the Kiyomizu Stage (清水舞台)

Despite of the will to complete the whole track, I had to succumb to reality as it was getting dark. I took a bus to the final stop of today’s trip,  Kiyomizu Temple.

The temple was packed with people. Some of them were ecstatically taking photos of the panoramic view of Kyoto from the Oku-no-in (Innermost court), whilst some of them were queuing next to the main temple to get some Japanese talismans (お守, Omamori). As I walked past them, I gazed at the hills next to the Kiyomizu Stage. The silence and the beauty of the night struck me, as compared to the dazzling urban landscape next to it. It seems to me then, that the love to nature is a common language among people of different countries.

Oku-no-in (奥の院) in Kiyomizu Temple, with panoramic view of Kyoto Tower and the city

This was one of the must-see sceneries in Kyoto, as thousands of tourists flocked to this place in order to get a glimpse of this spectacular view. The traditional Kiyomizu Stage made a sharp contrast with the modern city landscape of Kyoto, which again represented Kyoto very well.

Kiyomizu Temple. Details: a quiet pond reflecting the night Sakura

After a day’s walk, my feet were aching but my heart was peaceful. The healing that nature brought about was wonderful. Moreover, the way Japanese designed their gardens also reflected their pursuit of peacefulness. Only when the water was calm, one could see the reflection clearly and perfectly.

Ōsawa Pond (大沢池, Ōsawa-no-ike), Daikaku Temple (大覚寺Daikakuji), Western Kyoto (洛西, Rakusei)

On the second day, I took the Trokko Train (Also known as the Sagano Romatic Train) to Saga-Arashiyama (嵯峨嵐山), which was in the western part of Kyoto. The Trokko travelled along the river bank of Hozukyō (保津峡) to Sagano (嵯峨野) station, and then I walked for 15 minutes to the Daikaku Temple. 

Buddhist temples represented a major part of the history of Kyoto, and the elegant Japanese style gardens were also major attractions. The Daikaku Temple was famous for its affiliation with the Imperial family in the past, but what attracted me most was the Ōsawa Pond. It was created in the image of a large lake in China and also with the element of Ikebana (生け花・花道, the art of flower arrangement).

As I walked around the pond, I saw Japanese families picnicking beside the pond and parties of elderly adding to the beautiful scenery.

Katsura River (桂川), Arashiyama (嵐山)

When I walked into the bamboo forest, I was attracted by the mystery deep inside the greenery. The tunnel of bamboos was like a maze in which I almost got lost, and yet it was leading me to a land isolated from the outside world (武陵桃源, Buryō-tōgen). Indeed, what stood in front of me as I exited the bamboo forest was a knoll full of cherry blossoms with the Katsura river bank immediately down the hill. I became a child running with all my strength 'til I got to the top, where I looked down and took this beautiful picture.

Togetsu Bridge (渡月橋, Togetsukyō), Arashiyama, Western Kyoto. Two Maikos (舞妓, young geisha)

Maiko-san are trained in etiquette and skills that a Geisha should master, which includes how to walk the walk and talk the talk. Even by observing a smile, a gaze or a step, one may be astonished by the refinement they exhibited.

Ryū’an Temple (龍安寺,Ryū’an-ji), Western Kyoto. Details: Stone Basin of Content(知足の蹲, Chisoku-no-tsukubai) with four kanji on it, namely 吾(ware - I)、唯(tada - only)、足 (taru-o - content)、知 (shiru - know)

What is happiness? The answer is to be content with what we have now, as explained by four words only in the stone basin above. You will have to be content with having four words as an explanation!

To me, everything in this temple was so inspirational. There was also a stone garden with 15 stones, but one could not see all the stones from any point. The designer of this garden wanted to convey the message that no one could see the whole truth from one point of view.

Maruyama Park (円山公園, Maruyama Koen). Details: Somei-yoshino in half  bloom (五分咲き, gobu-saki)

Hundreds of Japanese were sitting under the cherry blossom tree at night, drinking sake and chatting in high spirits; businessmen, high school students and housewives! The Sakura fever has already spread throughout the city. This was the power of life!

On the last day in Kyoto, I went to southern Kyoto and spent the whole morning in Daigo Temple, which was one of the oldest Buddhist temples in Japan.

Daigo Temple was one of the most popular sites for cherry blossom viewing, but the “Daigomi” (醍醐味, the true charm) for me was the traditional Japanese beauty that it possessed. As I was walking uphill, I found this serene Japanese garden. At first glance, one may see an unrefined garden overgrown with moss. But then, as I stood there smelling the scent of the wet soil, I started to understand what the Japanese coined the Wabi (侘び, poverty) and the Sabi (寂び,desolation). Wabi and Sabi are important concepts in the Japanese culture, especially in Japanese tea ceremony (茶道, Chadō) and literature. Regardless of the florid appearance, it is the inner quality that matters. That’s why instead of tea kettle and tea room made of gold, Japanese tea ceremony insists on using iron tea kettles in a frugal tea room. In other words, always be reminded of the beauty in simplicity.

Fushimi-Inari Shrine (伏見稲荷大社), Southern Kyoto

Although it was almost sunset when I left Uji (宇治, the town of green tea), I still took the JR train to the Fushimi-Inari Shrine. Every day, hundreds and thousands of foreigners flocked to visit the Senbon-Torii (千本鳥居, the tunnel of Torii, thought as the entrance to the sacred site) which has since become famous after the release of Memoirs of a Geisha.

As I was walking through the tunnel, I felt like I entered a mysterious world that was isolated in time and space. Especially when the sun was going down, it was a bit eerie there. Then I ran through the tunnel, hoping to find an exit. After hiking for almost half and hour, I got out of the Torii. What stood in front of me was an aerial view of the Inari town with the sun setting! Thus, my beautiful journey was completed with yet again another magnificent view.

Mata-aimashō (また会いましょう, See you)!
AC